Chianti Spire, Washington Pass
08.18.09 - 08.19.09
East Face (aka the "Rebel Yell" route) - 5.10a/b
We climbed the East Face of Chianti Spire via its East Face (Rebel Yell) route. We found the
climbing quite sustained and strenuous. The crux 5.10a/b off-width crack was incredible; the climb
overall we found challenging and extremely enjoyable.
Awesome!
This picture taken from Highway 20 looking east towards the Wine Spires; Chianti Spire just visible (mouseover photo to see overlay). We camped at Burgundy Col which is accessed via a steep and tiring hike.
Emiko on a rare flat part of the trail to Burgundy Col.
Finally reaching the Burgundy Col, Emiko relaxes (Liberty Bell, etc. in the distance).
The Col offered outstanding, but smoky (there were nearby forest fires) views.
Emiko and James at the bivy site.
An amazing sunset.
Summit day--Eric double checks the map and route description.
Descending the col to the east en route to Chianti Spire (our camp just above the finger of snow).
Emiko on the approach.
The East Face of Chianti Spire.
(Mouseover photo to see an overlay of the "Rebel Yell" route.)
The upper part of the route ascends the obvious crack running directly up the East Face.
Eric leading the first pitch—the rock was amazing.
Looking down one of the early pitches.
Eric tackling the 5.10 R eight inch off-width; not as bad as it looked.
Emiko following the second pitch.
A view across the Silver Star glacier from about halfway up the route.
James takes off up the third pitch.
Emiko pulling the blind step around—this was a heart thumping move; props to the first ascensionists.
Emiko on the same move, but from the opposite angle.
Eric tackling the same.
Eric beginning the long and strenuous crux—an awesome pitch! Steep, vertical, challenging, perfect.
Emiko following the crux—the exposure was awesome. The blue speck below is James’s coat where we began climbing.
A very rare picture with both Emiko and I (Eric) in the same picture (thanks to photographer James) . We’re standing on about a 1 x 3 foot ledge one pitch from the summit.
Emiko taking off up the last pitch.
Emiko at the summit!
James on the tiny summit block.
Eric on the same.
Emiko on rappel down the East Face (despite what some climbers have reported, this is a fine way to descend).
Emiko descending back to our truck about 3,000 feet below on highway 20.
© 2009 The Climbers' Cache